Preserved Lemons’ Origins
Preserved lemons date back to at least the 12th-century (and likely earlier than that), when a prominent Egyptian-Jewish physician named Ibn Jumay published a medical text called On Lemon, it’s Drinking and Use. The text explored lemons’ healthful and nourishing properties and included the first-known published recipe for preserved lemons. Jumay’s instructions, which called for splitting the lemons, packing them with a copious amount of salt, and letting them sit for weeks until they have fermented, is virtually identical to the process used to make preserved lemons today. By the 13th century, the practice of making preserved lemons had spread throughout the Middle East and North Africa. An Arabic cookbook called, The Link to the Beloved, which devoted an entire section to salted lemons, claimed that they were, “so well known, they need no description.”
Preserved Lemons Across The World
Traditional flavorings for preserved lemons range widely depending on where they are made. According to Lemon, A Global History by Toby Sonneman, “In India, preserved lemons are…strongly flavored with spices such as ginger, cardamom, and cayenne. Preserved lemons in Afghanistan are flavored with black cumin seeds, while in Morocco and other parts of North Africa spices are rarely added.” Some recipes include olive oil as both a flavoring and an additional preserving agent, while others stick to the citrus fruit and salt. No matter how and where they are prepared, however, preserved lemons serve the same purpose: to infuse dishes with an unforgettable briny punch and effervescent lemon flavor.
Growing up, Ron’s Moroccan family took advantage of the peak lemon season to make preserved lemons for the rest of the year, then added them to signature dishes like chicken with olives, and fish cooked with garlic and turmeric. Today, we carry on with those traditions, while also using preserved lemon paste as a “secret ingredient” that enhances everyday cooking.